In Uzbekistan there are remote mountain villages inhabited by ethnic Tajiks. They retain their ancient customs, and their everyday life is radically different from their neighboring Uzbek kishlaks.
CABAR.asia correspondent visited a remote mountainous kishlak, which is located near the highest point of Uzbekistan – Khazret Sultan Peak, situated in the mountains of the Gissar Range.
Kishlak Gelon is located 70 km from the city of Shakhrisabz, Kashkadarya region, located 384 km from Tashkent, in the south of Uzbekistan. Kishlak is located at an altitude of 2,336 meters above sea level and is home to 7,000 people, mostly Tajiks. It is surrounded by the majestic mountains of the Hissar range, which divides the country from Tajikistan. Travel time from Shakhrisabz to this high mountain village is between two and three hours, depending on the time of year.
Getting to the village is very difficult. People drive on difficult mountainous off-road roads with steep descents, altitude drops and many dizzying turns.
Gelon is one of the most exotic and picturesque places in Uzbekistan. Far from civilization, it is a place where summer meets winter and people still drink water from street ditches because it is impeccably clean.
Locals say that their ancestors settled here in the mid-13th century, fleeing the persecution of Genghis Khan’s troops.
Until 2018, there was a ban on visiting these places for tourists, since the village is located in the border zone.
In summer, the weather in this marvelous place is beautiful – when in the valleys of Uzbekistan reigns sultry summer, here it is quite cool. And in the mornings, it is even cold, and to avoid colds the locals wrap themselves in warm caftans.
Spring in Gelon begins on May 1, and winter lasts six months and comes in November.
The villagers are busy in summer preparing for the coming winter. They make supplies by harvesting the crops they have grown and bringing supplies from the valleys because it is very difficult to travel to the valleys in winter.
Agriculture and horticulture are mainly developed here, but every day more and more attention is paid to animal husbandry. Residents of the village are also engaged in carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery and jewelry crafts.
Due to the lack of sunshine, some types of berries and fruits do not grow in Gelona. In particular, melons, figs, grapes, watermelons and other fruits are in short supply here, which residents bring down to the valleys.
The village itself is famous for its potatoes. You can see a lot of potato fields right on the mountain slopes around the village. And Gelon potatoes are famous for being very fast boiled, tasty and crumbly.
Since the land around the village is uneven and sloping, which makes it impossible to use a tractor, the residents plant potatoes by hand. To plow the land, they use a wooden plow with cows or donkeys.
But the main role in the local cuisine is played by meat. In Gelon they cook a rare dish called Ugro Osh, which at first glance looks like a pilaf. However, instead of rice, they put there finely chopped and fried vermicelli. Potatoes or turnips may be added to the dish.
There is a rural medical center, two schools, a teahouse, a village mahalla – guzar, a small market, several stores and pharmacies on the territory of the village. In addition, there is a memorial house-museum, where traditional musical instruments and old photographs are kept.
The inhabitants of the village live peacefully and united. All people seem to be connected by invisible ties and fully trust each other, know each other “up to the seventh knee”. That is why from ancient times to the present day you will not find here houses, which would be enclosed by fences. There is no crime in this serene village. Besides, there are quite a lot of long-livers here. The average life expectancy is 78-80 years, while the national average is 73.8 years.
Kind-hearted and responsive villagers are always ready to unselfishly help each other and travelers. In the harsh living conditions in the inaccessible mountains, one cannot survive without mutual assistance.
Shodikul Makhmadyorov is 56 years old. He was born and raised in Gelon. He spent his teenage years in Tajikistan, where he studied dentistry at the Medical University. He served in Afghanistan from 1985-1987. To date, he is the only dentist in all of Gelon. He has dedicated his entire life to helping his fellow villagers. He says people still come to him asking him to examine and treat them.
“I love my work very much, and I am always ready to provide services to those in need,” Shodikul says.
Tourists are treated favorably and friendly by the locals. Already at the entrance one can feel the special atmosphere of this place. The narrow streets are full of frisky kids running around and playing games. The tantalizing smell of freshly made tortillas tickles your nostrils. Elders sit on benches and watch their grandchildren while drinking hot tea. Cows and sheep, driven by shepherds, wander lazily through the narrow streets.
Donkeys are the main means of transportation on these mountain streets, as it is difficult to travel by car. Motorcycles and cars designed for the rugged mountain roads can also be seen.
A distinctive feature of Gelon are two-story houses, the first floors of which are for keeping pets, people live on the upper floor. This peculiarity is due to the severe cold weather during most parts of the year. People thus take care of their livestock. Similar architecture can be seen in the mountains of Tajikistan, as well as in Tibet and Nepal.
Among the local sights one can mention the sacred mountain Khazret Sultan (height from 4063 to 4083 meters) – it is the highest point of Uzbekistan, which is located near the village of Gelon, on the border between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. It is a place of pilgrimage for believers from all over Uzbekistan and neighboring Tajikistan.
Also on the territory of the village there is a public mosque, which was built in 1848 and named in honor of Muhammad Ibn Geloni. On the way to Gelon you can see the famous water reservoir “Hisorak”, which is located at an altitude of 1800-2000 m above sea level and provides water to all the surrounding areas.
Delicious food, mesmerizing landscapes, smiling inhabitants, rich history – literally attract the attention of any traveler. A visit to Gelon is a unique opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and find inspiration in the simplicity of people and the beauty of nature. This is a place where history and nature come together to create a unique symphony that will leave a trace in the soul of every person who visits this high-mountain village.